Toscana II

June 2024

We met in a weightless space, in a place where certain laws don’t apply and our friends’ advice don’t reach us, because no one knows where it is. We tried to be lonely together and to find the days outside of time again to see if our memories are memories or the present of a feeling with a future, despite the deep cellars where the remnants of our lives are. For in my memory (and the longer it goes on), we lived on air and love, hearty cows from Northern Italy, and Negroni. Like all couples, we have experienced a lot together. We have had intense years together, like all couples. But we spent these intense years in many different places with many different feelings and created libraries of memories, sorted by place and feeling, with still some room left. A landscape is somehow always a feeling. That binds you together, and no one can take that away from you so quickly, nor give it to you, no brief crush in which one projects oneself for a moment. Maybe it was even an attempt to establish a constitution of our own. G7 for two, a relationship summit. Everyone needs a constitution: people, states, systems, lovers too. A framework, rules, boundaries of being together, where we show ourselves without dissolving into infinity. I refuse to think in open or closed categories; there is much more than we are capable of achieving through language. The solution to space and time lies outside of space and time, perhaps in traveling by train, between chapters, back and forth, because what happens when you take back the train that is supposed to take you away? She only said that after our days she might spend hers in Lucca.
We met at the train station of Florence. A black Mercedes limousine picked us up. No surprise there. I was glad to be with someone for whom this was nothing special. This way, you can devote yourself to the things and enjoy them, not to what they do to others. Our castello was an hour away. It perched on a hill like an island in a sea of hills. The driver said it had belonged to the Visconti family for a time, who liked to throw parties there. The long roads wound around the hills, and the rivers flowed towards the sea. You could see the rivers and see where they flowed and roughly know where the sea was. Most riverbeds lay dry and white in the sun, and the little water in the channels was murky and flowed sluggishly. The fields were bare, yellow, not brown like the last time. Everything was very antique, but from the 11th century, as the driver said. You couldn’t tell if the distant shapes were mountains or clouds. A landscape is above all a feeling. The feeling is hard to describe, but the landscape where you have it. Being so cut off can then either be beautiful or terrible.
We got a big house at the end of the grounds. In the evening, we took a walk and drank Bellinis on the large terrace in front of the bar. Back at the house, we put another bottle on ice and talked all night. The next day I noticed all the beauty that surrounded us. The manners the castello had taught the landscape. The wind in the herb gardens in front of our house sounded like the sea. It was a big house with an even bigger garden, without a fence, in which there were vineyards and olive groves. The colors were full to the brim, and our house stood out clearly and yellow from the blue of the sky. From our hill, you could see the other hills. Needless to say, the driveway was lined with cypresses. 
The next day, we spent in Florence. We were here a few years ago and have memories of fights on the streets and steaks. Back then, we stayed right by the Piazza Santo Spirito and could see the square and the city from the hotel terrace in the evening. We visited the museums together and let Botticelli show us what life is and that there is nothing new under the sun, not even us. Being together in the museum was like dreaming, where imagination rules and creates a climate of creativity. All our best and worst moments hung there, in golden frames, outside of time, which is even more eternal if such a thing exists, because it’s like with all times, they come and go, and you only notice they were beautiful when they’re gone.
The Villa Michele is a 150-year-old house with a long driveway, where lavender blooms and Ferraris stand. Better than the castle because there is a talkative porter and a waitress who liked to chat with us for a long time. There were striped umbrellas from which you could see the world and a large green hill that the villa leaned against, overlooking the plain in which Florence sits and simmers.
The next day we had a guide to show us Florence who talked about Athenians, Romans, Byzantines, Lombards, the New Platonic Academy, the various guilds, and showed us a famous perfumery. Then she understood who we are and so we went straight to Caffé Gilli to the bar and had a few Amaro standing up. After the drinks, we walked past the Palazzo Vecchio to a bar where a count and a bartender invented the Negroni. We drank shaken Campari, which tasted good and shaken, and she said it was quite nice and she wouldn’t have thought people our age would like it. 
We were beautifully drunk when we said goodbye to the guide, thanked her for the great tour, and tipped her. The approaching farewell brought the fear of losing each other closer. Between us, there was that kind of pleasure people usually have before they are together, never during, rarely after. It was almost like when you aren’t together and see yourself well through others and wish the other would too. It was a form of independence, without lies, forgiveness, or goodwill. An independence that works. 
In the second wine bar, leaning against the wall, with her in view, surrounded by brick, it became very clear to me that she was the best, beyond good and evil. She had that glow about her, drinking and smoking and glowing, and I knew it was this woman, or none, and that she was rare and maybe only once in the world. Most people leave nothing of your imagination when you’re with them, only a few, rare ones, fully join in and enhance it without losing anything of their reality. It’s like reading about it in a travel guide from the ’60s before you’re there and everything is not as it is when the present intrudes and blurs the timeless value of things. The view veiled by dullness. We talked about where she wanted to go tomorrow. She still didn’t know. Maybe Lucca. I had the morning train to Vienna.
By the end of the night, we walked through the streets of the city for a while, shaking off the Americans we just met, and slowly re-entering the world we liked to surround ourselves with. We were looking for a taxi, but I think we weren’t really looking for one, just walking away from them and then from ourselves, passing by the Loggia, by Perseus with the head of Medusa, all the other statues at night and an imposing Santa Maria Novella, green and white and full of power. I told her about the one in Genoa and the Americans there, but I had never experienced anything like this. We walked a few more alleys. We just didn’t want it to end. Eventually, we went to a hotel, and she ordered with that self-assured, familiar routine that all these hotels we had been in over the years had given her. The porter couldn’t help but call one. We held each other very tight for the rest of the night, as if we wanted to hold on to the moment before it passed.
 

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